Week 5- September 16, 2017

Hello Gardeners!

Special thanks to volunteer Michelle for helping me out and taking pictures this weekend. We volunteers have lives that get in the way sometimes! This program runs twice a year, so 32 weeks total. It’s quite a large commitment for all of us!

Many more plantings were scheduled for today. One cup of Ladybug Fertilizer should be added to where the bush beans will be planted. 2 cups should be applied between the cucumber trellis and the tomato cage, and 2 cups between the cucumber trellis and the end of the plot. All plots need to “Deep Dig” this fertilizer in with previously added compost, at least 4 inches deep and leveled off with the long handed cultivator. Here’s how it should look when you’re finished:

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Everything nicely scratched in and leveled off.

 

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At 4 inches deep the soil was moist and cool, but above that was dry and clumpy. Mixing in the compost better breaks up the clumps to allow for a better environment for worms and better drainage

 

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Working the soil

 

Here are some folks getting their fertilizer and compost in:

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As always, we checked on all the other planted veggies. Wayward tomatoes need to be straight and tucked into their cages. If your cucumber is now growing against the trellis, try to remove the bamboo stake gently. Make sure your marigolds are growing well- these aren’t watered by the irrigation lines that volunteers come to turn on several times a week, so they must be watched carefully! Hopefully all the broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower is doing well. Cabbage loopers are often a problem, so gently rub the back of the leaves to destroy any adults or eggs. At the end of the day, and after thorough watering, they will be drenched with Javelin Bt diluted at one teaspoon powder to one gallon of water, along with 2 drops of Ivory detergent. This should prevent cabbage looper caterpillars. This organic pesticide is very expensive, so don’t waste any! Whatever remains in the can can be used on the planted kale and tomato plants.

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Here a parent is showing the male cucumber flower that fell off, and explaining that the fruit is growing because it was fertilized by bees

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a cucumber flower

Our plantings today are 3 rows of “Provider” bush beans with 15 seeds per row, 5 “Straight Neck” yellow squash seeds, 2 “Toscano” kale transplants, and 2 “Tango” celery transplants. Can you believe everything that fits in this one plot?!

The measurements for the bush beans were laid out last week. We dug small trenches an inch wide and an inch deep for each of the three rows. Each row should have 15 seeds equally spaced about 3 inches apart. Seeds should be dropped sideways, not up and down, to prevent them washing away. Seeds were covered with excess soil and lightly tamped in and thoroughly watered. Plant tags were added.

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Preparing to plant beans

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More planning bean placement

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Beans laid sideways

Next the squash were planted. The measurement from the outer edge of the cucumber trellis to the inside edge at the end of the plot should be 48 inches.  The center of this area was located. The first squash seed was planted here, an inch below the surface, with the pointy end up, and firmly tamped in. The other four seeds were planted 1 ft from the first in an “X”. The area was thoroughly watered and tagged with one tag.

 

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Squash planning

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More squash planning

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Planting squash seeds

Note that all transplants are thoroughly watered before planting!

Next the kale was planted. They should be planted 16 inches away from the middle of each of last weeks planted cauliflower plants. Space each plant 12 inches away from the top and bottom of the inside part of the plot, 18 inches from each other. Leave the peat pot on! Firm the plants in well, but don’t damage the stem or leaves. Tag it!

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Working the soil between plantings

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Planting kale

Last, we planted celery. The celery transplants will be planted in the middle between the outer edge of the cucumber trellis and the outer lip of the tomato cage. This planting area should measure about 6′, so we found the middle. Each plant should be 12 inches away from the top and bottom of the inside part of the plot, and 18 inches from each other. Plants were placed in, firmed in, and tagged.

We fertilized all plants in each plot with a full gallon of Hasta-Gro. The recipe for this was 2 oz of Hasta-Gro for one gallon of water (which is only half a can, as the cans are 2 gallons).

Whew! What a busy day. The irrigation system was turned on for 12-15 minutes, while we monitored for clogs as always, trusty paperclip in hand. All tools were cleaned and returned to the shed.

It isn’t too late to get your home garden started. Google is your friend for building raised beds! Here is the AgriLife resource for building a raised bed, and here is how to choose a garden site. Here are the plants you can do for fall. Note that many of these dates haven’t yet passed, and several of these veggies can be grown in containers! I grow my tomatoes in containers and love it. Note that some of these grow best from transplants, so support small businesses and buy these plants locally. Milbergers, Rainbow Gardens, and Fanick’s are a few located here in San Antonio.

See ya’ll next week!

 

-Kelly

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Week 4- September 9, 2017

Hello gardeners!

Please excuse this week’s lack of photos. I had an infection and was on antibiotics; I didn’t want to get any of the kiddo’s sick! I’m going to work on finding a replacement photographer, as I have other commitments for several other weekends this season as well. If you’re available to take some cell phone pictures occasionally, let me know!


You may have noticed some plots have colored flags in them. This means compost must be added to these areas. Take care to avoid the irrigation lines.

Next, we fertilized the area in-between the marigolds and the first tomato cage with 4 cups of Ladybug Organic Fertilizer. This should be scratched in. We also scratched in any added compost. This makes it easier for seedlings to sprout! Small spurge weeds can be worked into the soil- we don’t need to pull them up the way we do other weeds.

Evaluate your previous plantings. Tomato’s should be straight and well supported in their cages. Tuck them in if they’re trying to escape. If any root balls are exposed, add a thing layer of compost and then mulch to cut back on watering needs. Removed leaves touching the soil.

For the cucumbers, you’ll want to make sure that the support trellis is appropriately placed. 

Your marigolds should look healthy as well. These aren’t watered by the irrigation system, so water with the watering can.

We had lots to plant today! Make sure all transplants are watered well before removing from the 6-pack.

We measured where the bush beans will be planted next week -24 inches away from the inside center from the very front of your plot. Mark this area with some stakes. This will be the first row to direct seed 15 seeds. Each should be 2-3 in apart and about an inch deep. Check again after watering to see if they need to be pressed back in! The other two rows should be spaced 8 inches apart.

The next planting was “Cheers” head cabbage. Measure 2 ft away from the bush beans. For each transplant, we space the cabbage plants out 12 in away from the top and bottom of the inside part of the plot, 18 in from each other. We know all this measuring seems tedious, but it gives the garden a well kept look, and ensures all the plants have space to grow! The plants are planted at or below the soil line (below if they are top heavy). Basically as deep as the first set of leaves. Firm the plants in well. None of the peat pot should be visible! We tagged it and moved on.

Up next was “Green Magic” broccoli. Transplants are 24 in away from the middle of each of the two cabbages. These are measured and planted the same way as the cabbage.

The last planting was “Snow Crown” cauliflower. The transplants are planted 24 inches away from the middle of each of the broccoli plants. Measure and plant the same as the previous two plantings.

Slowly water in all new plants. Each plot will get one gallon of water with 2 oz of Hasta-Gro. Don’t get any on the leaves, just the soil around each plant!

Lastly, we watered the area with the irrigation system on low for about 12-15 minutes.

All tools were cleaned and put away.

Starting September 30th we will have activities in the Sunday House. We’re doing all kinds of things, including making scarecrows, learning about bees, and learning how to compost!

See ya’ll soon!

Week 3- September 2, 2017

I’ve decided to follow one section a week so that everyone has a chance to get featured. If you don’t see yourself yet, don’t worry, you will 🙂

This week we had several plantings to catch up on due to last week’s cancellation. Just a few reminders for everyone:

-Please be on time. Y’all should be here at 8 am sharp! We have lots to do over the next few weeks, and we want to beat the heat!

-There are two excused absences per gardening session. If your child is unable to attend, please make sure that there is a family member who can attend to help, so as not to overburden your section (or email us for help!)

-Don’t forget to drink water! It also helps for your child to keep a garden journal. As Adam Savage from MythBusters says, “The difference between messing around and science is writing it down!”

-Remember to bring in kitchen scraps for the compost pile. This really helps the kids take ownership of the gardens. A five gallon bucket on the back patio does just fine.

Let’s jump into the planting and maintenance!

First up, Ms. Mary, our section lead, held a team meeting where she demonstrated the use of her homemade ant killer and discussed the days plans.

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See ya later ants!

Everyone made sure to scratch and level his or her plots.

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Scratching!

We checked on our Tycoon tomatoes next. The storm last week took a few of them out. Those were marked ahead of time so the kids knew which ones needed replacing. Here’s an example of one sick tomato!

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Poor guy!

New tomatoes were planted where needed, but we didn’t worry about pre-soaking the hole as much since we got so much rain last week. We planted our second tomato plants, the “Dwarf Cherry Surprise” BHN 968. The planting was done the exact same as last week, both with fertilizer and planting depth.We made sure no roots were exposed,

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Tomato planting

and that the tomato was standing straight up in the cage. If roots were exposed, we added some compost to cover them. As always, we mulched the berm around the tomato to keep water and nutrients in. Any leaves touching the soil were removed.

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Mulching the berm

Our next planting was the “Sweet Slice” Burpless cucumber (these names kill me!). These plants are very fragile and must be handled with care. The trellises were already set up for us. We applied one cup of Ladybug fertilizer to the front and middle part of the trellis. The plant was planted about 2 inches away from the middle of the trellis. You’ll notice cucumber plants have a certain way they seem to want to lean, so we made sure that was leaning towards the trellis when planted. The cucumber was planted even with the soil line and firmed in. We set a support stake in diagonally, to train the plant towards the trellis. Be careful to do this a few inches in front of the plant so as not to disturb the roots.

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Cucumber planting with trellis (note the support stake)

The plant was gently watered in, and labelled with a tag.

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Watering in the cucumber

Our last planting of the day was marigolds. A&M AgriLife Extension tells us that marigold roots release a substance that is toxic to nematodes, who can quickly ruin a fall planting. All the marigold plants were pre-watered. They were to be planted just a little below the soil line and firmed in very well.

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Planning marigold placement

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Each plot planted four marigolds. They were planted in the peat pots they came in, and we were careful not to disturb the roots. All marigolds were gently watered in.

Every plant was given Hasta-Gro liquid soluble starter mix, just like in week 1. The recipe is 2 oz of Hasta-Gro per gallon of water, with each plot receiving one quarter gallon of water/fertilizer mix. Take care not to get any fertilizer on the leaves as it can burn them!

Although it is mentioned in the agenda, I wanted to say it again here. We use a lot of fertilizer! The organic LadyBug fertilizer is natural and granulated, and thus has a low nutritional content. We have to apply lots of it because it takes about three weeks to break down and become available to the plants. We supplement with the liquid Hasta-Gro once a week for about 3 weeks because it is immediately available to the plants.

The kids also learned how to maintain and turn on the irrigation system. Their fancy tool for unclogging? A paper clip. Isn’t it nice when a gardening problem has a simple answer?

Have you heard of the Junior Master Gardener program? It’s another set of programs offered by A&M Extension. If your children’s school doesn’t have a garden, we have plenty of resources to help you start one! Find me on Saturday’s and we can talk about it, or email our youth gardens coordinator Ruby Zavala, Ruby.Zavala@ag.tamu.edu. Don’t worry if you don’t know what you’re doing, don’t know how to talk to the administrators about it, and aren’t sure where the money will come from. We can help with all of that! You’re going to see what a difference this program makes in your child’s life, why not change a whole school?

 

Until next week,

-Kelly

Week 1- August 19, 2017

“Adopt the pace of nature: her secret is patience”   -Ralph Waldo Emerson

This is my first blog post, but not my first garden. I’m writing these posts now because I believe in the program, the practicality and the magic of it. My hope is to show you how easy it can be, and how rewarding. My name is Kelly. You should know I’m a fairly new gardener. They say you have to have killed at least 1000 plants to become a Master Gardener, and I’m well on my way. I completed the Bexar County Master Gardener program this year. I can’t recommend it enough. More information can be found here: Master Gardener Program. I have a bachelor’s degree in Biology and am applying to medical school in the not too distant future. Right now I am enjoying my husband and toddler! I am mostly interested in growing vegetables and feeding the world. I drive past highway medians all the time and say “YOU COULD GROW SO MUCH FOOD THERE!” If vegetables aren’t your thing, fear not. We grow herbs and flowers here too. I would say though, that if you have never picked a warm cherry tomato right off the stem, and eaten it, that you are missing out!

The instructions for the Children’s Garden come from our Bexar County AgriLife Horticulture extension agent, David Rodriguez. These represent the very best science backed gardening practices, with research conducted and aggregated by Texas A&M University. The best growing and hardiest vegetable varieties are selected, so that success is nearly inevitable. I plan to include videos periodically about how to build raised beds, what to put in them, how to install drip irrigation, how to select things to grow and when to plant them, and how to harvest and prepare what you grow. There are more than a few people who just follow along and do exactly what we do here at the children’s garden every week. That works too. Selecting things that your family likes to eat and planting those would be even better. Note that the agendas with most of this information can be found at the top of the page under “Agendas”. I am working on a new site design, so keep an eye out. Let’s dive right into week one!

Most of the kids have gardened with us before. This is high praise, I think, that they keep coming back. The volunteers arrive early to set things up. We are greeted by sunrises and the promise of things to come.

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Not bad at all!

Here’s the funny thing. Since its the first day, kids arrive and wait outside the gate to be checked in. The ones who have done it before are chattering and bouncing, but the newer ones are almost always quiet. The skepticism is pretty obvious. Can you blame them? Looking at all of these empty beds, and having never gardened before, they have no idea what a riot of color it will all be in just a few months. You drop a tiny seed in the ground and grow a giant plant? They’re not buying it. I can hardly wait to see their faces by Halloween! Here’s a picture of the Celosia that’s planted right by the gate:

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Celosia

Celosia takes the heat well and has soft, sturdy blooms. According to Aggie Horticulture, the name is derived from Greek and translates to “burning”. You can almost see that in the above photo, yes?

The section leaders all talk about gardening manners. We don’t walk on the beds, and we pick up debris in and around the plots and walkways. They are usually shown the compost section, which doesn’t look like much, but it’s what makes everything grow so well! Here’s a quick guide to compost. Families are encouraged to bring compostable materials in to add to the pile such as vegetable scraps, coffee filters, tea bags, and egg shells. We have volunteers who turn the pile and sift it for us.

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Compost pile

 

The first thing everyone does is “scratch” in 8 cups of Lady Bug naturally derived organic fertilizer per plot. This means they sprinkle it evenly all over, and then use a small garden rake to gently break the surface and mix it all in. tools.jpg

 

The children only planted one thing today, and it was a “Tycoon” variety tomato transplant.  We had the one gallon size, because they are larger and even more well established. Tomatoes are one of the things it is much easier to use transplants for, instead of seeds! The volunteers had come around and placed tomato cages where they would go, so these were removed.

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“Scratching” fertilizer in

Next we dug holes for our plants. Here, John shows everyone that the hole should be about twice as wide as the container, to give the roots loose soil to spread into.

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After digging the hole, we mixed two additional cups of the Ladybug fertilizer with the soil removed from the hole. Next, we GENTLY removed the tomato from the container and pinched the edges to help the roots spread.

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Pinch gently!

The tomato is placed in the hole. The top should be level with the soil. Half the soil we removed is put back in, and then we watered the hole thoroughly. Once the hole drained we added the rest of the soil back in. Any leftover soil we used to make a “berm” around the edges, to help keep water and nutrients in. No roots should be exposed, and any leaves touching the soil should be removed. If any soil remains on the plant it can be watered off, but you shouldn’t make a habit out of watering the leaves of vegetable plants!

*Note: Planting of tomatoes in the spring and fall is often done differently. We backfilled the soil and watered it BEFORE adding the plant because the sun has been drying out this soil for months. Watering first lets osmosis carry the water away to the drier parts of the bed, without stealing it from the plant later. The watering we do AFTER planting now should stay with the plant, which needs it in this hot Texas summer!

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Planting time!

Finally, one cup of fertilizer is sprinkled around the base of the plant, avoiding the stem! Fertilizer touching any stem or leaf can burn it. Mulch is added to the berm, and everything is watered with the watering can.

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Mulching the berm. Sounds like a campaign slogan!

The stake that comes attached to the plant should be left alone. It will support the tomato while it grows. The tomato cages are placed over the plants and hammered in place with rebar stakes. All plants should have a name tag with the name of the plant on front, and the date on the back.

Yes, if you can believe it, we do fertilize these tomatoes one more time. The Ladybug fertilizer is a natural product, and so more is required. We finish the planting with Hasta-Gro liquid fertilizer. Each two gallon watering can gets 2 oz of Hasta-Gro with half a can of water (one gallon). Each tomato plant gets one quarter gallon of fertilizer/water mix. Remember not to get any on the leaves! The instructors turned on the drip irrigation for a few minutes to make sure everything was well watered in.

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Notice that these were smaller tomato transplants for some empty beds. It’s not too late to register! 

That was all the planting for the day. We break it up over the first 4 or 5 Saturday’s, because it can be overwhelming! If you have questions, please comment and I’ll be sure to find an answer for you! If you know someone who would like to register, please have them do so! It isn’t too late.

-Kelly

Registration NOW OPEN!! For the 2017 Fall Children’s Vegetable Garden Program

Children’s Vegetable Garden Program

About the Program:

CVG Girl with entries resizedThe Garden is proud to present one of the nation’s oldest youth gardening programs. Children ages 8-13 get their hands-on horticulture with the help of our partner organizations, Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service and Bexar County Master Gardeners.

The Children’s Vegetable Garden Program at the San Antonio Botanical Garden is an opportunity for children to grow their own vegetables and ornamental plants with the help of instructors from the Texas A&M AgriLIFE Extension Service and Bexar County Master Gardeners, as well as other volunteer organizations. Each child is allotted a 3.5’x28’ garden plot. Children will have fun growing different types of seeds, vegetables, and ornamental annual flowers. Children can also earn their Junior Master Gardener certification by participating in fun, hands-on activities each week after they have tended their garden. In order to gain the most from the learning experience and to help ensure successful growing, participants are required to attend all sessions (two absences are allowed). Families are welcome to share the gardening experience with their child. A parent or guardian must stay with their child.

Fee: Thanks to a generous donation from our friends at Milberger’s Landscaping and Nursery, the Spring Vegetable Garden Program will be $40 per child or $60 for two children to share a plot (non-refundable). Ages 8-13.

Donations welcome.

Questions? Please contact Timothy Roan at 210-536-1412 or troan@sabot.org

THIS SECTION SHOWS THE IMPORTANCE OF COMMITMENT TO THE GARDENING PROGRAM

Child   must   be   able   to   attend   the   Children’s   Vegetable   Garden   Program   every
Saturday, August 19 through December 2 from 8 a.m. till 12 p.m. (only two absences will be allowed).

Will child:  (1) be on time every Saturday by 8 a.m. (unless told otherwise); (2) do their daily
chores; (3) attend the daily presentation; and (4) participate in the daily Junior Master Gardener (JMG) activity?

Will child: be able to attend the first four-weeks of planting (very important)?

Will a parent/guardian be in attendance with their child, each and every Saturday?

Will child and family be able to attend the Saturday, November 11, Vegetable Show, Picnic and
Recognition Ceremony which ends around 1 pm?

Will child and family participate on cleanup day Saturday, December 3; for their plot and the garden?

 

The Fall 2017 Children’s Vegetable Garden Program

Saturday mornings, August 19- December 2 from 8:00 am – 12:00 pm

Click HERE to register for Fall 2017 Children’s Vegetable Garden Program

Children’s Vegetable Garden Program (CVGP) Week 10, April 22nd, 2017

Welcome to week 10 everyone. It was about 8:30am when we felt a little drizzle and the wind started to pick up. The cold front had hit us right as we started to work in the garden!

There were just a few chores to take care of like making sure that our plots, walkways and sections were completely free of weeds, trash and any large rocks.

We worked on our Insect Pest Management (IPM) and removed any ‘roly-polies’, Cabbage Loopers and Army Worms, and  and any other bad insects that were anywhere near our gardens. I know they are cute 🙂 but we DO NOT want them in our gardens!

Photos above: Left: Amy worm, photo provided by Agrilife Today, TopRight: roly-polie, photo provided by Wikipedia , Bottom Right: Stinkbug, photo provided by Wikimedia

We decided to harvest the broccoli. If we had waited one more week, it would have definitely bolted and not been very tasty. Click here for more info on growing broccoli and harvesting

Instead of leaving the broccoli plant after harvesting the crown to grow the smaller broccoli shoots, we also decided to pull out the entire plant. There was a bacterial infection found in some of the broccoli plants it was best not to run the risk on other plants becoming infected.

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Normally, after harvesting the broccoli crown, smaller shoots of broccoli will grow around the cut area and can be harvested for a yummy salad or side dish.

Some cauliflower were ready to harvest as well, while others still needed a little more time. To ensure that we get that pristine white cauliflower we wrap the leaves around the cauliflower head. A large, stretchy rubber band is used to hold up the leaves. The sun  turns the cauliflower heads yellow, so we gotta block it out.


This was the last day to reseed any yellow squash or bean plants that have not come up or might look real bad. Try to follow the expected germination dates to know if you need to reseed. Click here for a pdf from the Learn Grow Eat and Go! Junior Master Gardener Program planting chart.
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Even though it was a little drizzly, we wanted to properly water our plots to ensure the soil was moist enough for our veggies.

Then, as added IPM, we drenched our cabbage plants (especially in their centers), cauliflower and broccoli plants with Spinosad.

Pictures above are John Mayer and Jon Maldonado prepping the Spinosad according to directions and then the plot leaders take the Spinosad back to the students and their plots.

Of course, nothing goes to waste here, so we took all the yellow leaves, broccoli plants, and brush to our compost pile. Did you know that you can pick up coffee grounds from your local coffee shop to enhance your garden compost pile?

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Lastly, I just wanted to share these pics. The CVG tool storage shed is always very organized and easily accessible. Keeping things clean and organized minimizes tool damage, safety hazards, and frustration!!!

 

Thank you and Happy Gardening!